VOGUE Emerging Designers
Neo-Gothic aesthetics and Apulian textile traditions coexist in Be Nina, a cosmopolitan fashion brand based in the port of Brindisi. Its founder, Sabrina Bonatesta, tells us more.
Those born near a port are used to seeing people leave, to living with the awareness that every kind of journey can be an opportunity to grow and mature. Near a port, the horizon is always within sight and leaving home does not seem so difficult. Similarly, from the quay, one is also used to seeing people return, bringing with them all the experiences they have had elsewhere. Sabrina Bonatesta, a young designer from Brindisi who runs her brand, Be Nina, in a studio overlooking her city's port, knows this well: “Every time I come back from a trip, I find peace here. I can process the stimuli, the encounters, the conversations I've had around the world,” Sabrina begins to tell me from her rooftop terrace overlooking the sea, fishing boats, boats, and ships. “Since I came back to Brindisi, I feel like I'm floating in time and space. Or maybe I should say drifting. The pace is far from the hustle and bustle of big cities, and the scope of action around me is much wider. Plus, my loved ones are here, and the sun almost always shines, something I've learned not to take for granted (laughs, ed.).”
However, Be Nina's story began far from home. After graduating, Sabrina left Brindisi for London: “As soon as I arrived, I took a preparatory course for English university. At that time, I still thought I would become an accountant when I grew up; it was one of my teachers who steered me towards this sector,” she confesses. "Immediately afterwards, I enrolled in the Fashion Design course at Ravensbourne University. It was a very practical university: we carried out lots of projects and during those years I began to take inspiration from fashion books for my work and my personal style.“ In London's libraries, Sabrina's curiosity was fed by fashion history from all over the world: ”I was particularly interested in 19th-century England, the Victorian era, and neo-Gothic aesthetics. In addition, thanks to a friend of mine, I learned about various Japanese subcultures that had a particular influence on me. What's more, my sewing teacher had worked as a seamstress for Alexander McQueen for 11 years and told us wonderful stories about what went on behind the scenes in this profession. I felt like a sponge, going to historic shops, looking at books and films, absorbing everything. In this way, I also got to know myself better.
Consequently, the idea of creating Be Nina also dates back to her university years: "It all started with an academic project. At first, it was called Binina, after the nickname my brothers gave me as a child, which is also my nickname on social media. Then someone pointed out that Be Nina would work better internationally, so I changed it. That's how the idea started, but at that point I also wanted to understand what it meant to work for others.“ And suddenly, London no longer felt like the fertile ground that had allowed Sabrina to grow: ”All those stimuli had become too much at a certain point. I needed a quieter environment.“ So the designer left the English capital and flew to Alghero, where she started working in Antonio Marras' team: ”I learned a lot from Antonio and his seamstresses. The environment was very familiar, but even in Sardinia I felt I wasn't in the right place. It was in early 2020, when Covid broke out, that I decided to go home."
And then there was AltaRoma, Milan Fashion Week. The first campaigns, pop-ups around the world, from London to Tokyo to Seoul. The cover of Rolling Stone Italia with Rose Villain and Madame's concerts. In 2024, Be Nina was among the finalists for the Camera Moda Fashion Trust. "Even far from the big cities, you can make contacts. After all, nowadays all you need is an email. I would like people from Puglia who want to work in fashion to start understanding that you don't have to leave to do business. All my suppliers are within driving distance, for example (she smiles, ed.)." Within a few years, Be Nina's popularity has grown worldwide, especially in the United Kingdom, Japan, and South Korea: "The best-selling product is undoubtedly the ear hat, which has been worn by Iris Law and is loved by customers of all ages. I've noticed that many of them are creatives, artists, and influencers. Until now, I've worked hard on building an aesthetic, but now I want to focus even more on the product."
Despite her international success, however, Sabrina Bonatesta intends to stay in Brindisi: “I am grateful to be able to travel a lot with my work, but this is where I feel I want to continue to grow, together with Be Nina.” After all, there's no place like home.
by Valentina Abate